Description: Two types are available; the bright green Australian White's tree frog, often with white spots (also comes in a "blue" variety), and the duller Indonesian varieties (often called "dumpies"). Females sometimes grow as large as 4", males are generally smaller. They can live well over 10 years.

Temperature: Daytime 75° to 85°F with a 5° to 10°F drop at night. A temperature gradient throughout the enclosure is preferred.

Humidity: Moderate humidity should be provided, approximately 60 to 70%. A humidity gradient throughout the enclosure is preferred.

Lighting: Plant grow-lights are necessary for live plants. Use a timer with an average of 12 hours on / 12 hours off. A dim night light is required for viewing nocturnal activities.

Feeding: Appropriately sized crickets are fine as a staple diet but a variety of other insects should be offered. Pinky mice can be offered occasionally. A good vitamin/mineral supplement should be given twice a week for adults and more often for young, growing frogs. Clean water should be available at all times.

Habitat: A 20-gallon tank with a secure screen top will suffice for one or two frogs, a larger tank would be better. These frogs like to climb, so branches and sturdy plants should be included in the set-up. Also provide damp hiding spots when cycling.

Sexing: Females are usually larger, males call and will develop nuptial pads on the front thumbs at breeding time.

Breeding: Start with healthy frogs that are at least 2 years old and cycle them prior to breeding. Keep the lights on for 13 hours a day and the temps at 80° to 85°F for a few months. Feed heavily and give extra supplements for a month before cycling down. Over a period of about 2 weeks, gradually shorten the day length to 10 hours and lower the temp to around 75°F, always continue with the 5° to 10°F drop at night. Humidity also needs to be reduced but do not let the tank dry out. Stop feeding and misting but be sure to provide a bowl of water. Over the next week, continue lowering the temps to around 65°F and shorten the day length to 8 hours, the frogs should be inactive and in their hiding places. Wait another week, turn off the lights, cover the tank and keep them in darkness for about a month. Be sure to check up on them, filling the water bowl, making sure the tank does not dry out and checking for sick or dying frogs. Cycle down period takes about 8 weeks or so altogether. Cycling up takes about 6 weeks.

Next, start the cycle up process; uncover the tank, raise the temps to 75°F and run the lights for 8 hours a day for the next week. Then, raise temps to 80°F, run the lights for 10 hours a day and start misting the tank lightly for a week. When the frogs are active again, start feeding them. Now, bring temps and day length back to normal, mist every 2 to 3 days and feed heavily (plus extra supplements and pinky mice) for the next 4 weeks.

A "rain chamber" is needed now with the rain falling for 4 to 6 hours starting in the late afternoon or evening. Spawning usually takes place in 2 to 10 days and 800 to 2,000 eggs may be laid. Remove the frogs when spawning is complete. Eggs hatch in 1 to 2 days.

A large pre-established aquarium that is filtered and planted up is necessary for the large number of tadpoles. They do best in filtered water with a high mineral content at 82° to 85°F. When they become active, feed them 2 or 3 times a day with tropical fish foods, freeze-dried tubifex worms, live or frozen blood worms, etc.

Tads will metamorphose in about a month and a set-up with easy access to land will be needed. Froglets can be fed pinhead crickets, fruitflies and other tiny insects.

ENJOY YOUR PET LIFE FORMS, Dave & Donna