Description: This is a large and truly grand day gecko. Originally from the tropical forests of Madagascar, where it lives in the trees, basking in the sun in the cool of the mornings and eating insects, nectar, and fruits. It can also be found on walls and buildings, being perfectly happy to live near people. Introduced populations have become established in Florida and Hawaii. A beautiful and active arboreal day gecko that typically grows to about 8 to 10" in length but some have been known to reach over 12". They can live for 10 or 11 years in captivity and have been reported to live for 20 years. Basic color is a beautiful emerald green with red or orange stripe that goes from the nostril to the eye. Variable amounts of similarly colored markings are often present on the head, neck, back and sides. Some specimens have a large amount of red and have been selectively bred to produce a beautiful color morph. Rare individuals have been found that are bluish green and also some that have small blue spots. They can be kept singly, in pairs or several females with one male if the tank is large. Females may or may not get along with each other but males are territorial and should not be housed together, as they will fight. Overly aggressive males may also harm a female. These lizards are difficult to hold and damage easily; a fishnet works well to transfer them between tanks.

Temperature: Daytime 75° to 85°F, basking spot near 90°F, about 5°F cooler at night.

Humidity: Moderate to high, about 60 to 75%, frequent misting is beneficial.

Lighting: UV light is necessary as well as plant lighting. Seasonal day length fluctuations are also needed and will help to stimulate breeding activity.

Feeding: Omnivorous, will mainly eat live foods such as appropriately sized mealworms, crickets, moths, flies, roaches, beetles, etc. These geckos, especially the adults, also need soft fruits and nectar like banana, cantaloupe, and peaches, etc. Mix the fruits and nectar together in a dish with fruit baby food and remove the leftovers before it spoils. A good vitamin/mineral supplement should be given twice a week for adults and more often for young, growing geckos. A small dish of calcium can be placed in the tank. They can learn to accept food from your fingers. Large adults may eat a pinky on occasion and it has been reported that they may eat their own young. Clean water should be available at all times along with misting to allow them to lick up water droplets.

Habitat: A tank size of at least 20-gallons with a secure top will suffice for one or two geckos, a larger, taller tank would be more suitable. Set it up as an arboreal jungle habitat with sturdy plants, climbing branches, hiding places and basking sites.

Sexing: Adult males are often larger and stockier plus they have a prominent row of pre-anal pores in the shape of a V. Two slight hemipenal bulges may be visible at the base of the tail, one on each side. The females do not have hemipenal bulges and the pre-anal pores are less visible.

Breeding: Adults become sexually mature after they are a year old and better results will result if they are about 2 years old and at least 8" in size. Cooling them down to 72 - 76°F for a period of between 1 and 3 months ("cycling") will simulate breeding when temps are brought back to normal. Be sure to provide the female with more food and extra vitamin/mineral supplements prior to and throughout the breeding season. Calcium is stored just behind their cheeks and is a sign of good health. Breeding season generally lasts for 7 or 8 months between November and August. It can seem pretty brutal with the male biting the female and her scars are a good indication that she will be laying eggs soon, from 4 to 6 weeks after mating. It may be best to have several females with him if they will get along well enough together. Clutches of 2 eggs (sometimes only 1) can be produced every 4 to 6 weeks, usually 6 times during the breeding season. These are lightly attached to something in a secluded spot and can usually be safely removed for incubation. Do not try to separate them if they are stuck together to avoid possible damage. Keep them orientated in the same position and carefully place the eggs in a plastic container with a couple of inches of lightly moistened coconut fiber or vermiculite. Put holes in the lid and put it on, then place the container in the incubator at 80° to 85°F with high humidity around 75 to 85%. Check every few days for bad eggs and add water to the vermiculite as needed. Eggs should hatch in about 1½ to 2½ months. The hatchlings are about 2½" long and are a bit dull colored. They can be kept the same as the adults and fed daily with tiny insects and fruit mixture. If they are raised together, watch carefully for signs of aggression, which will eventually come as the males get older. It generally starts after about 3 or 4 months and is best to separate any that start to exhibit this behavior as soon as it is noticed.

ENJOY YOUR PET LIFE FORMS, Dave & Donna