Crocodile Newts Tylototriton sp.
Crocodile Newts Tylototriton sp.
Description: There are 8 known species in the genus Tylototriton, all indigenous to East Asia. Most imports die within a short time so they are not common in captivity. Their native habitat is being cleared for farmland at an ever increasing rate, reducing wild populations. For this reason, every effort should be made to develop effective captive breeding techniques for these beautiful creatures. The larva and young salamanders are quite challenging to raise. Mostly nocturnal, non-aggressive but not really social. Not tolerant of over crowding or improper care. Somewhat delicate, otherwise long lived. 2 species are discussed but others may have similar requirements. The Emperor Crocodile Newt, Tylototriton shanjing has dark brown to black bumpy skin with orange colored feet, tail and parts of the head and belly. The orange is quite striking running down the dorsal ridge and in a row of 6 to 14 warts (paratoid glands) on each side. They can reach a size of up to 7" or 8". Mandarin (Guizhou) Crocodile Newt, Tylototriton kweichowensis has black to blue skin with red to orange colored toes, tail, paratoid glands, dorso-lateral warts and parts of the underside. They can reach a size up to 8". It is from mountainous forests in north eastern Yunnan and western Guizhou (Kweichow), China. Reproduction requires standing water. Temperature: They can tolerate temperatures down to 40°F for short periods, but it should not exceed 77°F. A good range would be 65° to 75°F summer, 50° to 65°F winter. Humidity: 60-95%. Summer has a wet and humid monsoon season that triggers breeding. Lighting: UV is not needed but a regular day/night cycle should be used along with grow lights for the plants. A dim night light is needed to view nocturnal activities. Feeding: Can be shy and timid initially but in time, may come out during the day to feed and can be coaxed into hand feeding. Earthworms and crickets are a good staple diet but a variety of other prey items should be provided. Feed adults every other day or so and juveniles every day, dusting food items with a supplement twice a week for adults and more often for juveniles. Clean water should be available at all times. Habitat: One to two adults can be housed in no smaller than a 15-gallon vivarium, but the larger the tank, the better. A planted terrarium or aqua-terrarium setup with multiple dark hiding spots is ideal. Keep the soil moist, but not muddy or soaking wet. It is better to have one side of the enclosure dryer than the other to allow the newts a choice. A choice of wetter or dryer hiding spots is helpful too. Sexing: Males are smaller, have a more pointed head and slightly thicker forearms. When in breeding condition, the male’s cloaca is swollen and more visible. Females are usually larger and heavier. To be certain, gently pull open the cloaca, males have a slightly longer slit and females have a small oval hole. Breeding: A cooler (50° to 65°F), dryer period of at least 2 months prior should help to induce breeding behavior. Gradually raise the temperature (into the 70’s) and humidity, mist often and feed them well. Provide a water area with a sloped bank, add floating plants and use flat rocks as islands. Courtship usually begins within weeks. The male moves in a circle waving his tail and deposits a number of small, cone-shaped spermatophores on a flat rock in the water or on land. The receptive female will follow and pick them up with her cloaca for internal fertilization. This may occur more than once. Egg development takes from 1 to 3 weeks. She should lay between 25 to 100 eggs on the plants and rocks in the water or on the moist slope above the water. |