Description: From the tropical rain forests of Madagascar where they live in small trees, preferring to stay nearer to the ground than most other chameleon species. Many different color and pattern types are known, each named after the area or small island where it is found. Although the body shape is typical for a chameleon, the males’ colors of are often quite spectacular. Males grow to between 16" and 22", females only reach around 13" or so. The life span in captivity is usually between 5 and 10 years. Adult males are very territorial and sometimes can not even stand the sight of another male. It is best to keep them out of sight of each other most of the time to avoid undo stress and the related health issues that result. Females can also experience stress when constantly kept in sight of a male and could even stop eating. Generally, females do okay when kept together, as do juveniles that are the same size (be sure to separate the males before they reach adult size).
These are great pets, second only to the Veiled chameleon in hardiness and ease of care. When acquired at a young age and cared for properly, they can become happy, friendly and very rewarding additions to the family. They may become accustomed to being handled but this is stressful to them and should be limited.
These are some of the locale color types that are available, many more exist. The males are described as all of the females look pretty much the same.

Ambilobe, also called "Picasso". Two variable color varieties are found in northwest Madagascar: Blue bars and Red bars. Besides the main blue and red colors, yellow, orange and/or green may be present in different combinations.

Nosy Be`, several color varieties are found on this good-sized island off the northwest coast including red, yellow, green and blue. They may or may not have prominent darker bars but usually have some yellow towards the rear of the mouth. Red is usually present around the eyes and is often speckled around the head and body.

Ambanja, northwest Madagascar. This locale type is blue to green with blue or red bars, and maybe even some yellow mixed in. The eyes will usually have some red around them.

Sambava, northeast Madagascar. This locale type has U shaped bars instead of the normal V or Y shape. Color types can include red, orange, yellow, and green in various combinations and the lateral line is sometimes blue.

Temperature: 75 to 80°F with a basking spot around 85°F. 5 to 10°F lower temps at night are appreciated but never below 65°F.

Humidity: High – 65 to 80%. Misting combined with a drip watering system can be used to achieve this.

Lighting: UV light is required, the 5.0 florescent tube type is recommended as the more powerful types may cause eye damage. A timer should be used to provide a consistent day length of 12 hours in the summer season and 10 hours during the winter. Panther chameleons really enjoy natural, unfiltered sunlight and it is the best source of UV light. Be sure to take steps to prevent overheating.

Feeding: Adults only need 1 to 3 food items per day, skipping food for 1 or 2 days per week. Breeding females, growing young or acclimating individuals should be fed more. They will eat a large variety of insects including crickets, mealworms, super worms, silkworms, plus earthworms and even an occasional pinky mouse. Some seem to like to eat a little bit of greens (even from plants growing in the enclosure). Dust the food items lightly with a calcium and vitamin supplement once or twice a week for adults and more often for young, growing chameleons. They can learn to be hand fed and can be trained to drink from a water bowl. Simply put an aquarium air stone in it to cause the water to splash up, this will usually simulate them to drink from it. In time, they will grow accustomed to drinking there and the air stone will no longer be needed. If this does not work, a drip system with the droplets cascading over plant leaves is usually accepted. Mist the chameleon’s body and around it’s eyes with tepid water occasionally and mist the enclosure every couple of days or so, more often on hot, dry days.

Habitat: The stagnant air in a glass aquarium can cause respiratory problems so a screen enclosure must be used. The vertical type is best, 18" W x 18" D x 24 to 36" Tall are standard sizes that work well for single adults. Smaller cages are needed for baby chameleons to allow them to easily find their food. Provide a lot of branches, leaves and vines to climb on. Sturdy plants, such as Ficus trees, are very beneficial and will also help to maintain humidity. Using paper towels or newspaper on the bottom makes cleaning easier, or use reptile carpet, etc. If the weather is warm enough, and over heating can be prevented, an outdoor cage is very beneficial.

Sexing: Adult males are larger, much more colorful, have hemipenal bulges and a small rostral projection from the nose. Females from all locales are usually the same drab gray /brown with faint colors and less distinct patterns. The color will brighten and the pattern will change according to mood or to display breeding receptiveness to a male.

Breeding: Females should be well fed and given extra calcium prior to breeding and while gravid. Please note: females that are bred more than 4 or 5 times often have shorter life spans. When a female is receptive, her pattern should disappear and the color should brighten up. It is best to place her in the male’s enclosure. Leave the pair together to mate a few times until the female darkens her color and displays a pattern.
Gravid females become darker than normal, which is a signal to the males that she is not receptive to any advances. She will become noticeably heavier as egg laying time approaches and may appear lumpy. About 3 to 6 weeks after mating, a suitable egg-laying site must be provided, failing to do so could result in her becoming egg-bound. Provide a container of loose material such as peat moss, coco fiber, etc. or a mixture. It should be at least 6" deep and not accessible to any feeder insects. Do not disturb her during the egg-laying process.
Between around 10 and 40 eggs may be laid. Carefully remove them without changing their orientation (marking the top of each egg helps) and place them in an incubator at around 74 to 78ºF. It can take 6 to 12 months for them to hatch. Leave the hatchlings in the incubator for 1 or 2 days after they hatch to allow the yolk to be fully absorbed.
The babies can be kept in groups. Small, simple enclosures with lots of branches are best to make it easier to find food. Fruit flies and house flies seem to be their favorite food. With good care they can reach sexual maturity in about 6 or 7 months.

ENJOY YOUR PET LIFE FORMS, Dave & Donna