Description: Found in Costa Rica, Panama, and Nicaragua, plus an introduced population has been established near Honolulu in Hawaii. Active during the day. Quite variable in color and pattern, most often green with black ovals and spots. Can also be blue, yellow or cream with black, brown or bronze, sometimes with more than 2 colors. A solid black form is also known. Size also varies from 1" to around 2". Sexual maturity is reached at 12 to 18 months and they can live 10 to 20 years. This species is not the true "poison dart" frog, although in the wild their skin is toxic. In captivity this toxicity is lost, just do not eat them and wash your hands after touching them.

Temperature: 68 to 80°F, temps over 82° are not tolerated well.

Humidity: High, over 80%. Cooler / wetter for breeding, warmer / dryer when not.

Lighting: Use fluorescent grow lights on a timer to provide a regular day and night cycle.

Feeding: Because they have very small throats, only tiny food items should be given. Pinhead to week-old crickets and fruit flies are fine as a staple diet. A variety of other appropriately sized insects can be offered such as spring-tails, rice flour beetle larva, tiny mealworms and "lawn plankton". A good vitamin/mineral supplement should be given twice a week for adults and more often for young, growing frogs. A very shallow bowl of water should be provided; they do not swim well.

Habitat: A 10-gallon tank is sufficient for a pair. Set it up as a planted tropical vivarium with plenty of hiding places to help them feel secure. Although they need high humidity, some ventilation is still needed. It is thought that these frogs may sometimes accidentally ingest debris or substrate material causing a fatal intestinal blockage. Appropriate measures to prevent this should be taken.

Sexing: The adult females are slightly larger and heavier, adult males tend to have enlarged toe pads, particularly the middle toe on the front feet. It is hard to hear the males call: a soft buzz that sounds like a watch ticking at high speed. Both males and females seem to be territorial and may wrestle with members of the same sex. This may cause the weaker one to quit eating and it should be removed. Often, they may just get along fine.

Breeding: Not too difficult if you have a willing and able pair. Feed them well and give them sufficient vitamin and mineral supplements prior to breeding. Mist the enclosure once or twice a day and provide a secluded nesting site. A half coconut shell on a plastic margarine container lid works well. Keep the day length at 12 hours and temps around 70 to 75°. When the female is ready she will follow the male around and stroke his back with her hand. If he is ready, he will lead her into the nest where she should deposit the eggs. He may or may not stay with her during egg-laying. It could be hours before he fertilizes the eggs so do not remove or disturb them for at least a day. If all goes well and the eggs are left in place, the male will protect them and keep them moist. After hatching, he will get the tadpoles to wriggle onto his back to be transported to water. After that his care ends. Artificial hatching gives greater yields. Place the eggs in a petri dish or similar container on a raised platform surrounded by a small amount of water. Do not let the water touch them. Keep the temps around 70 to 75° and the eggs should hatch in 1 to 2 weeks. Tadpoles can be raised together but growth is faster when they are raised in separate containers. Feed them tropical fish food flakes, frozen mosquito larva and blood worms. Metamorphosis takes about 2 to 3 months and the froglets can eat fruit flies,pinhead crickets, spring-tails and other very tiny insects.

ENJOY YOUR PET LIFE FORMS, Dave & Donna